Hello! You might have noticed that I’ve been a bit quiet on
the blog front lately – sorry. The truth is that I was a tiny bit busy… getting
married!
Our wedding day was completely perfect – lots of lovely
friends and family, a beautiful service, plenty of scrumptious food (of course)
and dancing all night long. And afterwards we went on the most amazing
honeymoon to Florence.
As the chief list-maker in our new family of two, I was in
charge of all the planning. Now I did, of course, have a list of gorgeous sights
I wanted to see, but I’m sure you won’t be surprised, dear reader, to hear that
I spent even more time planning exactly where we were going to eat – after all,
surely the food counts as a pretty major tourist attraction when it comes to
Italy.
I did some serious reading, scouring guide books, blogs, and
websites for the inside scoop. Everywhere, I read of Florence’s famous queues –
of waiting days for service at a café, weeks for a table at a restaurant, and
actually settling down, raising children, and then peacefully passing away in
the queue for the Uffizi Gallery. Of course, this is during the summer, when
temperatures and tempers soar – in December, all was beautifully peaceful, and
we had no trouble at all. I would still definitely recommend that you reserve
things in advance, but we got away with doing it just a few days before.
We did do the Uffizi, but stuff that – what you want to hear
about is the food. Oh, the food. I hardly know where to start.
Il Cibreo
When I started making my list of places to visit, I decided
that I’d only pick restaurants that at least two different websites or guidebooks
recommended. Il Cibreo popped up all over the place – and several people went
so far as to say that it was the best restaurant in the whole of Florence. I
knew we had to try it.
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Veal casserole |
Unfortunately, Il Cibreo
itself is more than a bit pricey – a minimum of about €120 per person – but they
also have a little trattoria next door, affectionately known as Il Cibreino,
where you can get a reduced version of the same menu, for a reduced price
(about €40 per person). The stand-out dish here was the ribollita, a soup of
white beans, cavalo nero, celery, courgette and bread cooked slowly over two
days. Doesn’t sound like much, right? But somehow those fairly humble
ingredients were transformed, with enough love and care and attention, into the
most delicious thick combination of soup and stew. I also loved the veal
casserole here – again, cooked really slowly, with sweet onions and plenty of
parmesan. Forget macaroni cheese, this is proper stick-to-your-ribs comfort
food, for when the snow is up to the tops of the windows and you haven’t seen
the sun in weeks.
Da Nerbone
Another place that kept appearing in the ‘Florence Top Ten’
lists was this humble lunch counter in the Mercato Centrale (a must-visit for
any foodie, you won’t get out without seriously lightening your wallet),
serving a short menu of traditional Tuscan favourites. We had the most amazing
porchetta sandwiches here – tender, melting pork, a soft freshly-made roll, and
a splash of the fragrant cooking juices. Nothing more fancy required – this was
scrumptious.
Osteria Buongustai
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Gorgonzola & saffron risotto |
Most lunchtimes, as above, we grabbed a sandwich – the enormous,
lavishly stuffed foccacie and panini put our limp triangular sandwiches in
their plastic packets to shame. But one lunchtime it was cold and rainy, so we
went in search of Il Buongustai. From the outside, it looks like the tiniest
stand-up sandwich bar, with barely room to squeeze along the counter and choose
your food. But for the initiated, there’s a cheerful little yellow dining room
out the back, crammed with plain wooden tables set with pretty mismatched
china. I had the most amazing risotto here – simply cooked with butter,
gorgonzola and a pinch of saffron, it was the perfect wet-weather food. In case
the mention of expensive ingredients puts you off, I should also say that a
large, generous plateful and a glass
of wine cost less than €10. Amazing!
Trattoria La Casalinga
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Unadorned: the best pork steak I've ever tasted |
Literally ‘The Housewife’, this bustling trattoria in the
Oltrarno area of the city was another place that was recommended over and over
again. We went here on our last night and ate such a feast that we had to walk
all the way back to our hotel (a slightly rambling, tipsy journey of about 40
minutes) to recover. I started with gorgeously tender tortellini in a rabbit
sauce, which had that amazing slightly bitter, gamey taste that goes so well
with a rich dish. For our main course, we both chose the roast pork with
rosemary and garlic, a fabulous fragrant slab of meat that came to the table
unadorned except by its own delicious juices. There was a lot of this, actually - when the food's this good, the chefs feel absolutely no need to mess around presenting it on pieces of slate or 'deconstructing' it. We both kept saying ‘I can’t eat
any more’ and then picking our forks up for just one more mouthful. By the time
we got to dessert, our belts were uncomfortably tight, but we knew we had to
try a final house speciality – the panna cotta, which absolutely did not
disappoint.
Trattoria Sostanza
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Now THAT'S how you cook a steak. |
I confess – I’ve saved the best til last. When we arrived, a
few minutes before the restaurant opened at 7.30, there was already a crowd
waiting, some of whom were subsequently turned away as it turned out La
Sostanza was fully booked for both sittings – on a cold and rainy Wednesday at
the beginning of December. We knew straightaway that this place had to be
something pretty special.
Inside was a narrow whitewashed room, with long shared
tables and a view through to the kitchen, where we could see cooking fires
blazing in a single large hearth, with an ancient blackened grill propped over
one of them, to cook the famous bistecca
(more on that in a minute) and bricks at each end on which massive cooking pots
were set, to keep the broth and sauces warm.
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Pollo in burro |
I started, as instructed, with the tortelloni in brodo – delicate pasta parcels of chicken in the most
amazing clear, amber-coloured chicken broth. For our main course, we shared the
two specialities of the house – pollo in
burro, chicken breasts dipped in egg, then parmesan, and then fried in the
heart of the fire in a saucepan swimming with melted butter – and bistecca alla fiorentina, a huge chunk
of steak about the size of my head, grilled to perfection over the fire. I
cannot possibly pick a favourite from these two – they were both swooningly
fabulous.
Mike couldn’t face dessert (to be fair, he’d eaten more
steak than me) but I just had to try the dolce
della casa, an amazing confection of soft, crumbly meringue, whipped cream,
pieces of dark chocolate and plenty of tiny, sweet wild strawberries – my absolute
favourite dessert of the week.
Phew. Are you still with me? Feeling full? I’ve got a
notebook full of scribbles (and food stains) about all of these fabulous dishes
and over the next few weeks I’m going to be doing my damnedest to recreate
them, so watch this space for some seriously good food. Buon appetito!
Update
As promised, I've been working away on recreating some of these fabulous recipes, so click the links below to find them:
Ribollita
Creamy Porcini Pasta
Muffuletta